Trekking Panch Pokhari Solo!

This year I decided to go on a solo trek to Panch Pokhari. Tihar had just finished and I thought it would be the perfect time, just when people would slowly be going back to work and studies. I chose the trek for two reasons; it’s close to Kathmandu so it can be completed in a short time and it’s affordable. Having completed the trek, I stand by both reasons being very much valid. What I will say is, the trek is still a challenge. It has an unforgiving uphill climb. Panch Pokhari trek is often billed as a beginners trek and I think that is arguable. Make sure you go with an open mind and time.

I bought a one way ticket from Kathmandu to Chimmti for Nrs 650 at the Aama Hyolmo Bus Park near Narayantar Bridge (around Jorpati area) a day before I left for the trek. Your ticket comes with a seat number so if possible, ask for a seat towards the front. We departed ten minutes later than the given time of 6.20am.

DAY 1

After departing at 6.30AM from Aama Hyolmo Bus Park, I reached Chhimti at 11.30am. The bus journey was enjoyable minus a few bumps on the bus here and there. I could see the mountains quite early into the bus ride. The bus journey is a mixture of paved road and off-road driving. So expect a variety! They make a few stop for toilet breaks and to let passengers off at various points – Melamchi being a key town stop!

Once I reached Chhimti, I asked around for a lunch spot. The hotel restaurant that was serving Nepali dal bhat was packed. There was no point waiting around. I went next door and had chow-mein and then started walking straight after.

The route is straight-forward and during the time of my trek, it was average busy. Trekkers were walking in both direction so I could easily ask someone for suggestions or guidance. I had decided to reach only up to Tuppi Danda on the first day and it took me 2 hours 40 minutes to reach my destination for the day! The walk consisted of crossing a suspension bridge, seeing several streams, a water fall, walking through Deurali village and generally building up an uphill climb.

Tuppi Danda sits at a height of 2700m. There are a few hotels there and I decided to stay at Kaley Dai’s Hotel. A single bed and dinner cost me Nrs 600, a bargain! The room was small and clean, with two blankets. I had taken my own sleeping bag and liner. I was quite warm at in the evening.

Dinner, Nepali khana is simple and enough. One can pay extra and ask for sukuti as well! There were atleast 4-5 other groups at Kaley Dai’s Hotel that evening. I was the only solo trekker and fellow trekkers asked me here and there if I was alone. It was amusing to hear some people’s response, “Saathi ta hola ni haina ra?”, “Eklai pani ke ramailo ra?” were lines that were often shared. Their voice and thoughts came from a place of pity in my opinion. Lol. The last thing that I wanted was to be with friends or a group of people, especially after Dashain, Tihar, my own adventures with friends and so on. I like my own peace and company, simply that.

Total walk time: 2 hours 40 minutes

DAY 2

I woke up early at around 4am and started packing immediately. After quickly freshening up and paying Kaley Dai his fees, I started walking around 4.45am. It was dark. The stars looked beautiful. I recommend a head torch or a hand torch. It’s hard to see where you’re going or what you’re stepping on at this time of the morning. Also, you can wake up later and walk later. As I had called it a night quite early on Day 1, I simply found no reason to lay around waiting so I thought – earlier I start, earlier I’d reach my Day 2 destination – Panch Pokhari.

Walking in the dark was great! At times the noises of nature I heard made me stop. I think I was more scared of a wild animal encounter than anything paranormal or spooky. My senses were heightened, I was more alert and careful about where I was going. I think that also slowed me down. It took me an entire 5 hours to reach Nyasim Pati. I reached at 9.30am! I will also add that the final two hours of the walk was really tough. I felt my bag pulling me back. Did I mention that I carried 3 litres of water up as well…

Nyasim Pati is a small village at height of 3700m! So, that is a whopping 1000m uphill walk from Tuppi Danda. Nyasim Pati is also the last stop before Panch Pokhari. As I had left Tuppi Danda without having anything, I made sure I had a little feast at Nyasim Pati. That means, dal bhat, two mini-packets of biscuits, tea and a fruity type of juice!

Although I was on a solo trek, it did not feel extremely solo. As we’re all walking the same route up and down, you see people a good amount. There were period of hours where I was completely walking alone. In my view, Panch Pokhari is a good solo trek option – you can be alone but also you have people to join or just talk and walk with. Of course, time of the year makes a difference. I went just shortly after Tihar.

At around 10.30am, I left and made my final trek to Panch Pokhari which sits at a height of 4100m. This walk is a lot better but feels repetitive towards the final bit. Largely because you’re literally walking on the top part, side of the hill so there’s a few ‘uphill climb, followed by downhill, then uphill then downhill’. It may not make sense but that’s what it felt like. It’s entirely rocky and stony here. Whoever created these stone paths deserve a medal. It’s impressive.

I had packed a few small snacks from the ‘hotel’ at Nyasim Pati so this final walk was alright. I got a boost everytime I snacked on something. I was walking with new friends I made on the trek in the very final hour. I realised that walking with someone actually helped me walk faster (and them too). I think you keep up with them, vice versa! We reached Panch Pokhari at 2.30pm, so about 4 hours later.

I was told that there are a total of eleven hotels at Panch Pokhari. Only four were open during the night of my stay. My room here was simple, it had a single bed and a double bed. I paid Nrs 1000 for the bed and dinner.

Walking and being on the move warms the body up; get’s the body and blood flowing. Sitting around is when you quickly feel cold. I tagged along with few different people and walked to the nearby Lord Shiva temple. Later, I walked to the top of a small hill, or mound and watched the sun set. It was really beautiful! I am not a huge sunset or sunrise person but I told myself, every location offers a different view – so “MOVE LEX, DONT JUST SIT AROUND”. Glad, I did!

Total walk time: 9 hours

DAY 3

I woke up around 4am and met two fellow trekkers at 4.45am at their ‘hotel’. We had made plans to walk up to the Panch Pokhari View Point together. To cut a long story short, we missed the path to the view point and was walking uphill in the dark to find a way. It wasn’t working out for us until another group arrived. They weren’t successful either as they had followed us, oops but after a while they somehow managed to walk up. When I say this, we were walking aimlessly on a hill hoping to reach the top. So, you can imagine how steep some parts were. It was only after we got to the top and daylight was in full beam that we saw how gentle and easy it would’ve been to follow the actual path. So, Panch Pokhari Samuha (organisation) should make it a mission to add a signboard with an arrow so people don’t miss the path.

The view point which is around 4200m height is a must! It is only from this point that you will be able to see the entire Panch Pokhari, five pools of water and the Jugal Himal (mountain) range from the other side. Sunrise is beautiful but so are the sea of clouds and the rolling hills. My best photos are from this morning.

We walked back after taking several photos and seeing the sun rise. At around 7.50am, I had packed and paid. I started my downhill walk alone at 8am after only having tea.

After two hours, I reached Nyasim Pati (10am). I had two boiled eggs and tea and continued my downhill walk. I had no interest or hunger to eat dal bhat. I just wanted to get the walking done. That also means, I was mainly snacking and drinking water, juice, mountain dew and coke – where available. I only reached Tuppi Danda at around 1.50pm. It took me about 3 hours and 30 minutes. I was getting quite tired! The downhill had started becoming challenging halfway into the walk down to Tuppi Danda.

After a quick stop at Tuppi Danda, I continued the downhill walk. I started walking at 2pm and finally reached Chhimti at 5pm. Let’s just say, this final leg was a challenge. I think a stop over at Deurali is a better recommendation – so your feet can be spared the pain. I was desperate to get the walking done and out of the way hence I pushed onto to Chhimti. Once I reached Chhimti, I got myself a room for the night as all the buses (only three services a day) to Kathmandu had already left. The room with ensuite cost me Nrs 1500 and I had to pay for food on top. I was very much happy to be back to Chhimti after walking 48,000 steps (according to my phone).

Total walk time: 9 hours

DAY 4

Depending on the time of the year it can be difficult to get a bus seat to Kathmandu. The generous hotel staff had asked for a small bag so he could keep it on the bus to ‘secure’ my seat. That’s how ticketing works! If you don’t have a kind person helping you then you basically need to wake up early and go to the bus and seize a free spot.

The bus left at 6.30am and I got to Kathmandu, just near the bus park I had left few days prior at 11.30am.

SUMMARY

Panch Pokhari Trek cost me approx Nrs 6655. The trek is popular among Nepali people. I mainly found a lot of young first-time trekkers and people that were going to the temple. When you’re alone it’s fine but depending on the flow and groups; certain times it can be noisy – especially in the hotel where everyone gathers each night. All the hotels are simple too. The uphill and downhill is not easy. So please don’t think that this is an easy trek because it’s near Kathmandu. There’s lots of beauty along the trek and of course, Panch Pokhari and the view point is the highlight.

If you’re short of time and want to really get ‘away’ then I highly recommend this trek.

RECOMMENDATIONS

• Take water
• Download Maps.Me app for offline maps
• Download AlpineGuide app to see the names of the mountains and the height of where you are
• Bus departures from Chhimti are approx 6am, 8am, 1pm.
• Regarding toiletries and packing list – I won’t say anything. I always overpack so maybe it’s best that you read online. Pack less so it’s easier for you to carry your bag uphill.

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